Chișinău is the capital and the only real city. It's not beautiful. Soviet-era apartment blocks, wide boulevards, and parks. But it's also changing. New cafés, restaurants, and a young, creative scene are emerging. The Cathedral Park has the Nativity Cathedral and the Triumphal Arch. The National Museum of History of Moldova has exhibits on Moldova's complicated history.

The city has a laid-back, provincial feel. It's not touristy, and locals are curious about foreigners.

Moldova is famous for wine. The country has some of the largest wine cellars in the world. Mileștii Mici and Cricova are underground wine cellars with kilometers of tunnels filled with bottles. You can tour the cellars and taste the wine. Moldovan wine is cheap and surprisingly good.

Orheiul Vechi is an open-air archaeological complex with a cave monastery, ancient ruins, and views over the river valley. It's Moldova's most visited site and worth a day trip from Chișinău.

Transnistria is a breakaway region that declared independence in 1990 (though it's not recognized by any country). It still uses the Soviet flag, Soviet symbols, and has a statue of Lenin in the capital (Tiraspol). It's a strange, time-capsule experience. You need to register at the border if you stay overnight. Transnistria is safe but surreal.

Moldovan food is influenced by Romanian, Russian, and Ukrainian cuisine. Mămăligă (polenta). Plăcintă (savory or sweet pastries). Sarmale (cabbage rolls). Moldovan food is hearty, cheap, and filling.

Moldovan people are warm, generous, and hospitable. They'll invite you into their homes and share food and wine. English is rare (especially outside Chișinău). Russian and Romanian are the main languages.

Getting around is rough. Buses connect Chișinău to other towns, but they're old and uncomfortable. Roads are in poor condition. If you want to explore wineries or the countryside, rent a car or hire a driver.

Moldova is one of the cheapest countries in Europe. Hostels run $8-12/night. A meal at a restaurant is $4-7. A bottle of wine is $3-5.

When to go: Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) are mild and good for wine tours. Summer (June-August) is warm but can be hot and dusty. Winter (November-March) is cold and gray.

Moldova is interesting if you want to see a country that's off the beaten path. It's rough, cheap, and full of surprises. But it's not for everyone.