Cyprus is divided. The south is the Republic of Cyprus (Greek Cypriot, part of the EU). The north is the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (only recognized by Turkey). You can cross between them, but it's technically crossing an international border. Most tourists stick to the Greek side.

Nicosia (Lefkosia) is the capital and the last divided capital in the world. The Green Line (a UN buffer zone) cuts through the city. You can cross from the Greek side to the Turkish side on foot. The old town has narrow streets, museums, and the Selimiye Mosque (formerly a Gothic cathedral). Nicosia is interesting but not particularly beautiful.

Limassol on the south coast is the main tourist city. It has a long promenade, beaches, and a lively nightlife scene. The old town has a medieval castle and narrow streets. Limassol is modern, touristy, and a good base for exploring the south.

Paphos on the west coast has ancient ruins (mosaics, tombs, amphitheater) and beaches. It's a UNESCO site and popular with British tourists.

Ayia Napa on the southeast coast is the party town. Beach clubs, bars, and nightlife that goes until sunrise. It's loud, crowded, and fun if that's your scene.

The Troodos Mountains in the center of the island have mountain villages, hiking trails, and painted churches (UNESCO sites). It's cooler in the mountains (a relief from the summer heat on the coast).

Famagusta (Gazimağusa) in the north has a walled old town and a ghost town (Varosha) that's been abandoned since 1974. The north is less developed, cheaper, and less touristy than the south.

Cypriot food is a mix of Greek and Turkish. Halloumi (grilled cheese). Souvlaki and kebabs. Meze (small plates of dips, salads, and grilled meats). Kleftiko (slow-cooked lamb). The food is fresh, flavorful, and similar to Greek food.

Cypriots are warm, hospitable, and proud. English is widely spoken (Cyprus was a British colony until 1960). Greeks and Turks on the island have a complicated relationship, so be respectful when discussing politics or history.

Getting around requires a car. Public transportation is limited. Buses connect major cities, but they're infrequent. If you want to explore the mountains or smaller villages, rent a car. Driving is on the left (British influence).

Cyprus is more expensive than Greece or Turkey but still reasonable. Hostels run $15-25/night. A meal at a restaurant is $10-15. A beer is $3-5.

When to go: Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) are perfect. The weather is warm, the beaches are less crowded, and prices are lower. Summer (June-August) is hot (35°C+/95°F+) and crowded. Winter (November-March) is mild but many beach areas close.

Cyprus is beaches, ruins, and sunshine. If you want a Mediterranean island without the crowds of Greece, it works.