Sarajevo is where East meets West. Ottoman mosques sit next to Catholic churches and Orthodox cathedrals. The old town (Baščaršija) has narrow streets, bazaars, and Turkish coffee shops. You can still see bullet holes in buildings and the famous "Sarajevo roses" (red resin filling in the holes left by mortar shells). The Tunnel Museum tells the story of the tunnel that kept the city alive during the siege (1992-1996). Sarajevo is beautiful, tragic, and resilient.

The assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand (which sparked WWI) happened here in 1914. There's a plaque marking the spot.

Sarajevo is cheap. Hostels run $8-15/night. A meal at a restaurant is $5-8. A coffee is $1.

Mostar is the most famous city in Bosnia. The Stari Most (Old Bridge) is a 16th-century Ottoman bridge that was destroyed in the war and rebuilt in 2004. Young men dive off the bridge into the river below (for tips from tourists). The old town has mosques, bazaars, and Ottoman-era buildings. Mostar is touristy but beautiful.

The countryside has waterfalls, rivers, and mountains. Kravice Waterfalls near Mostar are stunning and popular in summer. The Neretva River near Mostar is turquoise and great for rafting. The mountains are beautiful for hiking but many areas still have landmines (stick to marked trails).

Bosnian food is a mix of Ottoman and Balkan influences. Ćevapi (grilled minced meat). Burek (savory pastry with meat or cheese). Bosanski lonac (Bosnian pot, a meat and vegetable stew). Turkish coffee is everywhere.

Bosnian people are warm, hospitable, and proud. They've been through a lot (the war ended less than 30 years ago), and they're resilient. English is common among younger people.
Getting around is straightforward. Buses connect cities. If you want to explore the countryside, rent a car (but be cautious of landmines in rural areas).

Bosnia is one of the cheapest countries in Europe. Hostels run $8-15/night. A meal at a restaurant is $5-8. A beer is $1-2.

When to go: Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) are mild and less crowded. Summer (June-August) is warm and popular for waterfalls and rafting. Winter (November-March) is cold, and skiing is possible in the mountains.

Bosnia is beautiful, tragic, and authentic. If you want to see a country that's still healing but full of life, go.